Eat your way through: North Beach

Ah North Beach, the home of fresh focaccia, paper plate pasta and creamy cannolis. And, for transparency, my current home - and favorite SF neighborhood. Of course I might be biased, but San Francisco’s Little Italy is lauded across the board for its old school restaurants, lively bars, and general good vibes. 

North Beach is one of the few areas in the city where tradition continues to reign. There’s residents who have been around for decades, even generations in some cases. City Lights Bookstore has been standing on Columbus Street since 1953, Vesuvio Cafe has been dishing out drinks since 1948 and the famous Caffe Trieste claims to have been the first espresso house to open on the West Coast.

The neighborhood is just as popular amongst younger crowds and trendy bars, like April Jean and Bodega, continue to pop up around the area. The vintage stores, record shops and burrito joints live side by side with the old bakeries and Italian flags, leading to a charming atmosphere that thrives late in the morning and at night. 

Here’s where to stop next time you’re passing through.

Flour + Water Pizzeria

Flour + Water’s dedicated pizza outpost is a relative newcomer to North Beach. The highly anticipated opening took place last year but crowds continue to flock to the Columbus St location. The margarita is phenomenal, with a thin base and charred crust that has the perfect amount of crunch. The salads and soft serve gelato are good too, and the hot honey is worth the extra few dollars if you’re feeling fancy. Thicker, square slices are also available to-go at the back of the restaurant if you’re more in the market for a quick pitstop.

Tony’s Pizza Napoletana 

Sticking with the pizza theme, we move on to Tony’s, the overcrowded, highly awarded North Beach staple. Tony Gemigani has been winning worldwide pizza awards since 1991 and there is a constant line at his Washington Square restaurant (which is located right across from Flour + Water). Some locals think the pizza is overrated, while others prefer Capo’s, Gemigani’s dedicated deep dish bar near Cole Hardware. However, it’s a rite of passage to share a New Yorker with friends or eat a slice of cheese in the park. Do it at least once, and don’t forget the hot pepper oil.

Golden Boy

Our last pizza rec is Golden Boy, another local institution. You’ll find lines here too but the square slices are insanely cheap and nothing tastes better after a few drinks in the sun. Pro tip: call and order a small pizza ahead for $12 and skip the line altogether. 

Italian Homemade

There are a few Italian Homemade locations around the city and the North Beach one is conveniently located right by the park. You get to form your own creation here by picking your pasta and sauce and everything on the menu is made in-house. The pappardelle, raviolis and bolognese are all fantastic, as is the butter and sage sauce and the lasagne. The prices are pretty cheap and the meals are served on paper plates, making it the perfect option for a casual, easy dinner. 

Mama's

Mama's is a family-owned breakfast spot that's sat on the corner of Washington Square for generations. Go early, get the french toast sampler, see the picture of Lebron, and melt in a cinnamon-coated food coma after.

Original Joe’s 

Another crowded spot where the food is a little overrated but the lines continue to form. Original Joe’s has been serving up classic Italian American fare since 1937, so you can’t argue that they know a thing or two. The servers are attentive, the portions are gigantic and the martinis are perfectly poured. You’ll find better pasta around but it’s one for the SF bucket list, and as the kids say - a good one to bring the parents to when they visit. Other great classic Italian options nearby are Fior D’Italia, Firenze By Night, and Trattoria Contadina. 

Sotto Mare

This is somewhere where waiting in line is really worth it for seafood lovers. Sit at the bar and watch the chefs crack fresh crabs and stir amazingly creamy vodka sauce for lobster raviolis with a big bowl of cioppino, San Francisco’s famous tomato seafood stew. 

Molinari

Founded in 1896, Molinari’s is said to be one of the oldest Italian delis in the US and there’s a reason it’s still standing. The generously portioned sandwiches are made to order, the menu is huge and the friendly employees mainly speak Italian behind the counter. Ask them for their recs, or go for the eggplant parm. 

Freddie’s Sandwiches

Those in the know believe this tiny deli rivals Molinari. It’s quieter and the bread is phenomenal. Go for the turkey on Dutch crunch or sourdough and make sure it’s toasted. 

Butter and Crumble 

Another spot worth waking up for is Butter and Crumble, which just celebrated its one year anniversary. Sophie Smith and her team make the best croissants in the city, hands down, and the menu changes monthly. The pain suisse is always perfect and the twice baked options will knock out any other almond croissant you’ve ever had. They usually sell out by noon but you can keep up with the Instagram page for live updates of stock. 

Bodega

Known for its hip decor, cleverly named wines, and pumping music, Bodega is one of the most popular bars in the city. It’s widely known for being a good date night or catch up spot but its food is often overlooked. The menu mainly consists of fancier versions of bar bites, like mushroom toast and chicken nuggets, but everything is excellent and on Saturday mornings they have some of the best breakfast burritos in the city. Line up early and go for the chorizo. 

Sam’s Burgers 

Sam’s is a proper dive bar with unbelievably good burgers. The building has legacy status in the city and the great Anthony Bourdain called it one of his favorite burgers in the world. Sam's is simple, cheap and it opens late. There’s also a new Middle Eastern-themed restaurant next door called Sam’s East with great shawarma and sumac fries for a different meal. 

Liguria Bakery

Ok let’s get to the good stuff. North Beach has a lot of bakeries but a few really shine through. One is Liguria, a famous focaccia spot that’s been open for 112 years. You need to get there extremely early, we’re talking 7am, but it’s worth it. If you miss out, you can taste the bread in some local spots later in the day, like Mario’s on Washington Square.

Beacon Coffee

There is also a lot of coffee in North Beach, but Beacon often wins out for its great staff and strong pours. Their beans are from the renowned Grand Coffee and you can sit in and get some work done by the window overlooking Columbus St. 

Caffe Trieste

Caffe Trieste is another Italian classic. It’s not the best coffee in the world but it’s a fun place to sit in and enjoy an espresso, paid for by cash only. Frank Coppola, who owns the nearby Cafe Zoetrope, apparently wrote a lot of The Godfather here and there are plenty of other stories to hear from old regulars. Bonus: it’s open until 10pm.